French active-ingredient manufacturer Silab has introduced Metallomia, a detoxifying cosmetic active developed specifically for menopausal skin. According to the company, the ingredient is designed to address a deficiency in ferritinophagy — the process that ensures the controlled release of iron to meet cellular needs — observed in menopausal skin. Silab frames the launch as detoxifying because its target is the skin's own iron handling rather than environmental pollution.
The development draws on a modelling study of menopausal skin. Silab reports that a shortfall in ferritinophagy during menopause reduces bioavailable iron, which it links to premature skin ageing, a phenomenon it calls "metallo-aging." UV radiation is said to amplify the effect: exposure favours the degradation of iron/ferritin complexes, leading to a massive and uncontrolled release of iron and significant oxidative stress.
Mechanism and reported results
Metallomia is presented as relaunching ferritinophagy in menopausal skin, thereby facilitating iron supply and restarting the main epidermal functions. By reducing iron/ferritin complexes, the active is also said to limit oxidative stress when skin is exposed to UV.
Citing its own testing, Silab says metallo-aging is significantly reduced with the ingredient. From 14 days, the skin of Caucasian volunteers was described as revitalised, with a reinforced barrier and a more unified, radiant complexion. In Asian volunteers, pigment spots were reported to be significantly reduced after 28 days. When applied by Caucasian volunteers before UV exposure, the active was also said to prevent lipid peroxidation, with redness limited within hours of exposure.
Sourcing, formulation and compliance
For Metallomia, Silab focused on the molecular composition of marshmallow roots, which are particularly rich in mucilages. The company has set up a traced supply chain with French partners, validated against the criteria of the European Pharmacopoeia and through authentication by DNA barcoding. To make use of the roots' mucilage content, a specific enzyme engineering process was developed to extract polyuronides.
The patented ingredient is recommended for all care products intended for menopausal skin at a dose of 0.5% to 2%. Supplied as an aqueous solution, it is described as easy to formulate. Silab states that it complies with biodiversity regulations, has a natural origin content of 100% under ISO 16128, and meets international cosmetics regulations, including in Europe, the United States, China and Japan.